Monday, Monday, Monday: Part One

Winter Surf


So it was a Monday. I jerked up as the hail slammed into the windshield of my man Colin´s ride, but easily fell back into a slumber waiting for Colin and his Real estate agent to finish their meeting. I wasn´t crazy about the prospect of getting into the ocean with the air temp at the level it was and I figured the thundering hail would definitely cancel the outing. I, of course, was wrong, and an hour later I found myself timidly peeling off my clothing to be replaced with a damp rubber lining.

An almost queasy feeling in my stomach caused by an overall nervous tension was obviously telling me that my body did not think this was a good idea. To be honest my mind was right there as well, but I have a history of doing seemingly ridiculous things for nothing more than the story. And what the hell, now I can tell people I have been surfing in Ireland.

Low and behold, the shivering that was on the verge of uncontrollable ceased to be as soon as I was suited up. Surely the the cool, winter ocean will have something to say about that. But as I followed Colin past the first set of breaks and eventually became completely submerged the only feeling I could identify was exhilaration. The water almost felt warm!

Now the waves weren´t the best, and my 2 year hiatus from surfing had me looking more like a wounded seal missing his flippers floundering helplessly in the surf than a human trying to catch a wave. But in between sets, as I sat on my board and peered at the majestic Irish cliffs to my left and the vast Atlantic ocean to my right, I couldn´t help but think, "Its going to be a good day..."